Ask any regular at Tai Fung Lau Peking Restaurant in Hong Kong’s Tsim Sha Tsui district what keeps them coming back, and they are likely to mention its down-to-earth dishes, generous portions and value for money. This year, as the restaurant marks its 65th anniversary, second-generation owner Steve Wan remains committed to preserving both the hearty portions and the flavours of his father’s kitchen. That determination begins with a subtle distinction many diners might miss until Wan points it...
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